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The realm of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everyone. Among the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I needed to scoop one approximately see what all of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.

AT A GLANCE

WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast

PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD

HOW MUCH: $115.00

BUILD TYPE: Kit

PROS

• AWD for quick learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric

CONS

• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing

REVIEWER’S OPINION

This drifter has a great deal selecting it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very reasonable price. Handling is good at the same time once you become accustomed to the kit setup, plus it accepts a very number of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for people who want to tinker, so this car should grow with you as the skills do.

FEATURE BREAKDOWN

The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts at the base for that front and rear diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these can be used for mounting things like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find quite a few left empty. They may be utilized to control chassis flex, although not with the stock top deck; an optional you must be bought. The design is a lot like an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. All things are easily accessible and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.

? Other than several interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll as the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.

? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious level of steering throw they have got. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near to the edges of your chassis as possible. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I needed an effective servo to take care of the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is connected to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow using a number of different wheel and tire combos.

? To offer the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, but I do remember an approach I used a while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the surface with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I like the last result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m an extremely impatient painter!

Around The TRACK

For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to complete an image shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and obtain some sideways action?

STEERING

The steering around the D4 is fairly amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look just a little funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the appropriate direction. This is certainly, to some extent, because of the awesome handling of the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.

ACCELERATION/BRAKING

Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, you may control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I came across Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in alter the angle in the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Add more throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a little and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, and the Novak system is ideal for that. I did so need to be just a little creative with the install in the system as a result of small space around the chassis, but overall it figured out great.

HANDLING

After driving hooked up touring cars for quite a while, it will go on a little getting used to understanding that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the correct way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control once you buy it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at lower than several inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, and also the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you think as if you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of items to adjust. I just enjoyed the vehicle with the kit setup and it was just a point of battery power pack or two before I was swinging the rear throughout the hairpins, round the carousel and to and fro through the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap the battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.

DURABILITY

There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I did so, however, come with an trouble with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept with it, trying to overcome the issue with driving, but soon needed to RPM Team losi parts it in to actually take a look. Throughout the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is backed up by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted such things as the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.